Moroccan adventure
October 5th, 2010I seem to struggle to find the time to keep this blog updated, but will try to revisit it every now and then. The problem is once it gets a little out of date it becomes harder to get back into it, resulting in a snowball affect as it gets more and more out of date.
At the end of August there was the Summer Bank Holiday weekend, which is also the last long weekend until Christmas, so it comes with mixed emotions. Last year I used this time of the year to go to Turkey so was keen to do something again this year. Fortunately I had some willing accomplices, and we decided to go to Morocco, or more specifically Marrakech for a few days. Marrakech is one of those places that seems to be benefiting (or suffering, depending on your view) from the budget airlines flying there from all major European cities.
We flew Royal Maroc Air, the national airline of Morocco. It was an interest flight, and quite possibly the oldest plane I have flown on (China Eastern Airlines would be a close competitor). Upon landing the most immediate sensation was just how hot it was there. Since the airport involves stepping straight out onto the tarmac to get a bus to the terminal, you really feel the heat. I’d looked up the weather conditions before leaving London and we were in store for 43 degree days. Quite a step up from the low-mid 20s of London.
Our accommodation was a Riad in central Marrakech, we had a short walk around that evening seeing the main mosque, the square and the sooks with all their markets. That evening we also happened to find a tour office near our hotel so booked a trip for the following day out to Ouarzazate, passing through the Atlas Mountains on the way. We were in our own 4WD and apart from the 4 of us we only had 1 other person on our tour, a Spanish guy David who came in handy for taking photos for us. We made a few stops along to way to take some photos, do some shopping for souvenirs, but most importantly to buy some drinks to keep hydrated. One thing I noticed was that if a bottle of Coke was labelled as costing 3 Dirhams, we were being charged anything up to 10 Dirhams. I wondered why, was it just rural prices? I asked our driver why our prices don’t match the price printed on the Coke labels, he smirked a bit, said they are that price. Then I asked “Are we paying tourist price?” and he said “Yes. Tourist price”. Settled then! I wasn’t too bothered as things like bottles of Coke still worked out to be half the price as in London.
One of the highlights of that day trip was seeing a Kasbah along the way. It looked like it was built out of mud, and apart from it’s surround visit was in the middle of a barren landscape. After the Kasbah stop we reached our destination of Ouarzazate. The problem was that getting there was such a long journey we only had about 1.5 hours before the return journey. We had a feed in a nearby restaurant, which left the countdown at 45 minutes. Luckily there is really only two things to see in Ouarzazate - a Cinema museum and a big Kasbah. The Cinema Museum exists because Ouarzazate is like the Hollywood of Africa. Plenty of films have been shot in and around the city. Some films shot there incluce Lawrence Of Arabia, Star Wars, The Mummy and Gladiator. Because of this we all opted to use our remaining time in the Cinema Museum. In hindsight this was a waste. I think I would rate this particular museum as one of the least impressive I have ever visited. It was actually entertainingly bad. You would think with all those big name films it would have been very impressive. Unfortunately none of those films were represented in the museum. Instead it contained props from about 5 or 6 films I had never heard of!
The following day we went on another day trip, this time by coach out to the seaside city of Essaouira, a surprisingly windy city. It was a strange place, reminding in some ways of European seaside cities, but then in other parts being so typically Moroccan. I guess being a trading port ensured this. Again it was a very hot day with uninterrupted sunshine all day long. We walked through the city, checking out the street markets. One thing that disturbed me was the flies perching themselves on the market food and the stall owners not even bothering to get them to move on. Some places even stored their delicacies in glass fronted cabinets, the problem being that flies had infiltrated this and couldn’t escape, giving them no option than to crawl all over the enclosed food. Not good sight for tempting you to make a purchase.
The following day we spent in Marrakech itself, and I think Marrakech saved it’s hottest day of the trip for us. It was very hot. We walked up to the new city, which has a big French influence. From there we went to Jardin Majorelle, a small garden oasis in an other harsh environment. It was a nice little escape from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. The Garden was restored by Yves Saint Laurent, the cosmetics entrepeneur.
That evening we watched the sun set over the main square, Djeema El Fna. Sunset of course being a big deal, as we were there during Ramadan, the holy month for the locals, meaning they fast during sunlight hours. Once the sunsets the place comes alive and the whole city comes out to eat and celebrate.
The next day we did yet another day trip. This time we went out to Cascades d’Ouzoud, some waterfalls which are in fact the second highest waterfalls in Africa (behind Victoria Falls). The falls in Berber territory, a group of people living in the Atlas Mountains. Our tour guide was Berber (they are the only ones allowed to give tours there) and he spoke Berber, French, Arabic, English, and Spanish at a minimum (he possibly spoke even more!). The falls were impressive. This was also our only chance of the whole trip to have a refreshing swim, so I jumped at the chance and splashed around in one of the pools of water at the foot of the falls.
The next day we had an early flight back to London. I enjoyed Marrakech, but didn’t love it. I don’t think I would go back, it certainly felt like one of those places I would go to once, tick off the list and not really consider a return visit.
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